Khristos voskrese! This is the Orthodox Easter greeting (it means “Christ is Risen!”). We arrived in Moscow on Easter morning, after spending our first night on the Moscow Easter Festival Train. Just from our hotel window, we could count some thirteen churches dotting the city’s skyline – and the town reverberated with the sounds of ringing bells. Nothing we saw in St. Petersburg prepared us for this cosmopolitan metropolis. Wide boulevards crisscross the city, which is itself a series of concentric rings. Aside from dozens of ancient and ornate churches, the city boasts monumental Stalinist architecture, grand nineteenth century buildings, such as the Bolshoi Theater, and enormous public squares. Although both the Kremlin and Red Square were closed for the holiday – and for Victory Day preparations – we were able to see the Kremlin Wall and the outside of St. Basil’s cathedral, a huge, candy-stripped onion domed church commissioned by Ivan the Terrible. We also saw Kazan Cathedral, on the edge of Red Square, and the Cathedral of Christ the Savior. Voistinu Voskrese!